Sunday, May 13, 2012

Rest day at Pengboche—the Sonam Friendship Lodge at 4300 m


It was friggin cold in the rooms this morning. So cold that we didn't want to get out of bed, didn't want to get changed. Ricks right hand was swollen to about twice the size it should be. We figure its due to the bad sun burn that he got on his hand yesterday—the lodge keeper's wife inspected his hand and said maybe it was a result of pressure from the walking pole. We don't know what's up but it worth keeping an eye on.

We start the day at 7:30 am and order pancakes and a sherpa porridge made from barley. As we're eating, we keep looking out the windows into the courtyard where two horses a and foal are feeding. Our gaze is soon diverted by a young girl sitting in the corner with a huge pile of yak dung in front of her. She proceeds to dip the hardened, flat patties into a bowl of water, then she kneeds the dung like bread or clay until it it is soft and maliable then she rolls it into a 8 inch diameter ball. She soon have more than a dozen dung balls in front of her.

Although yesterday was a strain and I wasn't keen on a trek today, Karma has convinced us that a short trek would be good for acclimatisation so up the hill we went. At the top of the hill was an old stuppa and the view of the surrounding mountains was incredible so we decided to sit for a while and talk. We commented that we didn't see anyone outside then all of a sudden David and Steph from Grimsby appear, followed by Sara and Nick and their guides. It became a party atmosphere at the top of the hill—everyone laughing, sharing stories and taking pictures. After a while everyone started to trek further up the hill for another couple of hours of trekking. We decided not to continue on but to stay and enjoy the view.

Back at the lodge we have lunch—“Peets fresh coffee (from San Fransico), cheese pizza (the best one Rick has had on this trip), veg noodle soup and Seabuckthorn juice ( a juice made from berries local to this area of the Himalayas).

David and Steph tracked us down at out teahouse to borrow our SD to USB adapter, then we all head off to the Internet cafe for a quick facebook fix and to power up the laptop for a second time—recharging the laptop costs 300 rupees for 1 hour (that gets us to 85% charge from a drained battery. Internet on their laptops cost 500 rupees for 30 minutes so we don't get much online time here.

Next stop is a bakery /pool hall to enjoy a sit out in the sun and some baked goods. Nap time then up to the common room to sit and chat. Sara shows up (she's been touring around all the teahouses checking out the facilities and seeing who's there).She stays for a while then its time for us to order dinner. This teahouse gives you hot towels befroe dinner. This is really the only hot water we get during the trek so its well received.

Most teahouse common rooms have a pot belly stove in the middle of the room. They seem to only be lit in the evenings so its a good time to hang out there. We never gave much thought to what was being burnt in those stoves until we saw them light it today. One of the boys hauled in a huge brown paper sack, about 2 feet wide and 4 feet tall, stuffed with what looked like charcoal. It wasn't charcoal..it was hard lumps of yak dung. A few of the lumps were dipped into a kerosene pot to help start the fire, then handfulls of the stuff were dropped into the stove. Once the fire was lit I thought it would stink, but all we could smell was the kerosene.

Power is out at the teahouse pretty much all day. The overhead light in your room is not powered up until you finish dinner and head to room. Once the owners sense that you are in bed for the night, all the power is shut down again. Flash lights are a must for those later night trips to the bath room because the halls are ptitch black.

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